A night spent in a high up village called Kolong in Jispa district on the 17th having driven up from Manali. Next morning the 18th of August we trundled back 2 kms from our refuge for the night which was Kolong Retreat in a setting par compare ; tas overhangs the opposite side of the valley has glaciers from the back of Lady of Keylong, Geyphang Goh and an unknown peak.
But now we were in Darcha to turn left above to Sumdo deviating from the road that turns right to Baralacha La to traverse the Shinkun La a 16,500 feet high pass that entered the Zanskar.
Turning our heads from the entry to Shinkun La formerly called Shingola to look back towards Darcha we could see a 20 thousand feet high peak called Lalana and Dharamsura.
This was a magical land with lofty peaks snd glaciers which was a sight for sore eyes for us city slickers who had spent most of 2021 cloistered in their homes due to the virus that caused deaths or severe illness ! So having received two doses of the Covaxin vaccination we were ready for the arduous journey which was crossing a total of eighteen passes in the stipulated period of 15 days.
The journey undertaken in a convoy of three Thar jeeps and a Toyota Fortuner was fraught with danger but having chosen these 4 X 4s as our principal vehicles the risks were reduced as these tough little monsters with grunt and traction by the throw of 4 X 4 lever gripped the rugged terrain and transported us to safety to the next ridge
The feeling was amazing shooting while stopping the Thar to get pix of peaks par compare ! Yes the altitude 16,500 finally hits one and after a while it is time to trundle our Thars down to Kargyak where we will be tested for the rapid antigen test whereas we thought the RT/PCR will work. Nay as you cross from Himachal Pradesh into the Zanskar they do their swab tests free of cost and have no need for a document printed within the stipulated 96 hours. The swab is taken and you are allowed to trundle on to an even worse road along a dried river bed all the way to Purne.
A great crevasse at the bottom of Shinkun La
The climb was tough but even worse as is with most passes I have experienced the descent was even tougher due to broken paths and streams breaking the path even more.
A night spent in a high up village called Kolong in Jispa district on the 17th having driven up from Manali. Next morning the 18th of August we trundled back 2 kms from our refuge for the night which was Kolong Retreat in a setting par compare ; tas overhangs the opposite side of the valley has glaciers from the back of Lady of Keylong, Geyphang Goh and an unknown peak.
But now we were in Darcha to turn left above to Sumdo deviating from the road that turns right to Baralacha La to traverse the Shinkun La a 16,500 feet high pass that entered the Zanskar.
Turning our heads from the entry to Shinkun La formerly called Shingola to look back towards Darcha we could see a 20 thousand feet high peak called Lalana and Dharamsura.
This was a magical land with lofty peaks snd glaciers which was a sight for sore eyes for us city slickers who had spent most of 2021 cloistered in their homes due to the virus that caused deaths or severe illness ! So having received two doses of the Covaxin vaccination we were ready for the arduous journey which was crossing a total of eighteen passes in the stipulated period of 15 days.
The journey undertaken in a convoy of three Thar jeeps and a Toyota Fortuner was fraught with danger but having chosen these 4 X 4s as our principal vehicles the risks were reduced as these tough little monsters with grunt and traction by the throw of 4 X 4 lever gripped the rugged terrain and transported us to safety to the next ridge
The feeling was amazing shooting while stopping the Thar to get pix of peaks par compare ! Yes the altitude 16,500 finally hits one and after a while it is time to trundle our Thars down to Kargyak where we will be tested for the rapid antigen test whereas we thought the RT/PCR will work. Nay as you cross from Himachal Pradesh into the Zanskar they do their swab tests free of cost and have no need for a document printed within the stipulated 96 hours. The swab is taken and you are allowed to trundle on to an even worse road along a dried river bed all the way to Purne.
A great crevasse at the bottom of Shinkun La
The climb was tough but even worse as is with most passes I have experienced the descent was even tougher due to broken paths and streams breaking the path even more.
The bottom of Shinkun La leading to Kargyak
After that it was the blue waters of Purne and then climbing towards Padum along a thin trail on the side of a cliff in what looked like a sinking zone as I have seen quite a few myself in Sikkim.
The four vehicles at the bottom of Shinkun La
Will add videos as photos don’t show the travails. So 18th of August having been stymied for an hour down a cliffside by an overloaded tractor that refused to move an inch. My friend tried winching the bloke but in the end I told him exactly what he was to do which was move back to a culvert so we could leave. Reached Padum in ink black darkness with no moonlight and our mates who came in earlier booked us all in hotel Rigyal!
PADUM 19/08 MORNING BEFORE A GRUELLING 135 KMS DRIVE TO PHOTOKSAR
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Ubarak peak behind hotel Rigyal 
Unknown peaks near Padum
Next was exploring Padum but I had not much time but the morning of the 19th to visit the small town as the same day we had to drive 135 kms to reach Photoksar via Zangla, Pidmo and then ridges leading up to Murgum La a km or two walk away from the pretty village of Lingshed on the left.
The road I drove up to Singge La on the 19th of August 2021 all the way to my favourite village Photoksar since 2017 when I first attempted the Singgela and there was no going forward beyond Singgela then in the hired Scorpio as you knew Kiupa La existed as Skyumpata a beautiful village beckoned below.
The Thar starts from Padum up a very slowly climbing and relaxed undulating road past Karsha monastery to the left and turning towards Zangla. Slowly I drive up a gorge with the Indus flowing on the left for quite a long distance after which my jeep trundled across a bridge to enter a road now running parallel but with the Indus flowing on the right. Then the jeep climbs a rough road into a dry gulch on the left and at one time I had to employ the 4 wheel drive lever as the jeep keeps on climbing a hill of broken stones for a path. The road keeps on climbing and fantastic views can be seen as the valley opens up from the canyon drive in the middle.
There is a small pass about 1 hour walking from Lingshed called Murgum La is where we clicked the customary group photo ! Then the trail descends to Skiumpata Vilage and then on its a steep climb to Kiyupa La. Thanks Rijul Gill for the names of passes which I knew existed but wanted proof and who better than a Zanskar expert
The gorgeous village of Lingshed
I drove the jeep to the right of Karsha and left of Stongdey and reached Zangla. Then came Pidmo and the gorge where I drove first to the right of the Indus River and later crossing a bridge to the right. Next was a left turn climbing shale and broken slabs of granite in the name of road building. This turned into a series of ridges culminating in the Murgum La a km right of the colourful village of Lingshed
Now came the ridges having turned left upwards after having followed the Indus river from Pidmo ! The tar on the roads now were non existent and magnificent views came into view. After the Murgum La at 4397 metres is also known as Niekutse La which was built in 2019 and even in 2021 was unpaved. In 2020 it was up to Lingshed but now goes all the way to Leh via Singge La, Sirsir La all the way to Wanla and Lamayuru or Leh depending on which direction you wish to take from the fork at Langru after Wanla.
The ridges to Singge La the Lion Pass after crossing Murgum La 
The Lion shaped gendarme on Singge La at 5,100 meters 
Peak near Singge La at 16.830 feet
- Singge
The rough road led to Singge La after the non existent trekking pass of Kiupa La which has got obliterated by the motorable road that leads along a ridge to climb towards this pass only to descend to the delightful village of Photoksar which I had first visited in mid August 2017 exactly 4 years from this day.
The usual one hour to take customary photos of the pass and descent to Photoksar at and also vignettes of Sirsir La at 4750 metres and of course on the other side the road to Hanuma La also at 4750 metres which we had already crossed from Murgum La !
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After that it was the blue waters of Purne and then climbing towards Padum along a thin trail on the side of a cliff in what looked like a sinking zone as I have seen quite a few myself in Sikkim. Will add videos as photos don’t show the travails. So 18th of August having been stymied for an hour down a cliffside by an overloaded tractor that refused to move an inch. My friend tried winching the bloke but in the end I told him exactly what he was to do which was move back to a culvert so we could leave. Reached Padum in ink black darkness with no moonlight and our mates who came in earlier booked us all in hotel Rigyal!
PADUM 19/08 MORNING BEFORE A GRUELLING 135 KMS DRIVE TO PHOTOKSAR
———————————————————————————-
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I drove the jeep to the right of Karsha and left of Stongdey and reached Zangla. Then came Pidmo and the gorge where I drove first to the right of the Indus River and later crossing a bridge to the right. Next was a left turn climbing shale and broken slabs of granite in the name of road building. This turned into a series of ridges culminating in the Murgum La a km right of the colourful village of Lingshed
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After that it was the blue waters of Purne and then climbing towards Padum along a thin trail on the side of a cliff in what looked like a sinking zone as I have seen quite a few myself in Sikkim. Will add videos as photos don’t show the travails. So 18th of August having been stymied for an hour down a cliffside by an overloaded tractor that refused to move an inch. My friend tried winching the bloke but in the end I told him exactly what he was to do which was move back to a culvert so we could leave. Reached Padum in ink black darkness with no moonlight and our mates who came in earlier booked us all in hotel Rigyal!
PADUM 19/08 MORNING BEFORE A GRUELLING 135 KMS DRIVE TO PHOTOKSAR
———————————————————————————-
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I drove the jeep to the right of Karsha and left of Stongdey and reached Zangla. Then came Pidmo and the gorge where I drove first to the right of the Indus River and later crossing a bridge to the right. Next was a left turn climbing shale and broken slabs of granite in the name of road building. This turned into a series of ridges culminating in the Murgum La a km right of the colourful village of Lingshed
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After that it was the blue waters of Purne and then climbing towards Padum along a thin trail on the side of a cliff in what looked like a sinking zone as I have seen quite a few myself in Sikkim. Will add videos as photos don’t show the travails. So 18th of August having been stymied for an hour down a cliffside by an overloaded tractor that refused to move an inch. My friend tried winching the bloke but in the end I told him exactly what he was to do which was move back to a culvert so we could leave. Reached Padum in ink black darkness with no moonlight and our mates who came in earlier booked us all in hotel Rigyal!
PADUM 19/08 MORNING BEFORE A GRUELLING 135 KMS DRIVE TO PHOTOKSAR
———————————————————————————-
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I drove the jeep to the right of Karsha and left of Stongdey and reached Zangla. Then came Pidmo and the gorge where I drove first to the right of the Indus River and later crossing a bridge to the right. Next was a left turn climbing shale and broken slabs of granite in the name of road building. This turned into a series of ridges culminating in the Murgum La a km right of the colourful village of Lingshed
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I drove the jeep to the right of Karsha and left of Stongdey and reached Zangla. Then came Pidmo and the gorge where I drove first to the right of the Indus River and later crossing a bridge to the right. Next was a left turn climbing shale and broken slabs of granite in the name of road building. This turned into a series of ridges culminating in the Murgum La a km right of the colourful village of Lingshed
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After that it was the blue waters of Purne and then climbing towards Padum along a thin trail on the side of a cliff in what looked like a sinking zone as I have seen quite a few myself in Sikkim. Will add videos as photos don’t show the travails. So 18th of August having been stymied for an hour down a cliffside by an overloaded tractor that refused to move an inch. My friend tried winching the bloke but in the end I told him exactly what he was to do which was move back to a culvert so we could leave. Reached Padum in ink black darkness with no moonlight and our mates who came in earlier booked us all in hotel Rigyal!
PADUM 19/08 MORNING BEFORE A GRUELLING 135 KMS DRIVE TO PHOTOKSAR
———————————————————————————-
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I drove the jeep to the right of Karsha and left of Stongdey and reached Zangla. Then came Pidmo and the gorge where I drove first to the right of the Indus River and later crossing a bridge to the right. Next was a left turn climbing shale and broken slabs of granite in the name of road building. This turned into a series of ridges culminating in the Murgum La a km right of the colourful village of Lingshed
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VisibilityPublicPublishOctober 7, 2021 10:37 amPost FormatAsideChatGalleryImageLinkQuoteStandardVideoStick to the top of the blogAuthorBobby ChakrabortyEnable AMPMove to trash24 Revisions
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After that it was the blue waters of Purne and then climbing towards Padum along a thin trail on the side of a cliff in what looked like a sinking zone as I have seen quite a few myself in Sikkim. Will add videos as photos don’t show the travails. So 18th of August having been stymied for an hour down a cliffside by an overloaded tractor that refused to move an inch. My friend tried winching the bloke but in the end I told him exactly what he was to do which was move back to a culvert so we could leave. Reached Padum in ink black darkness with no moonlight and our mates who came in earlier booked us all in hotel Rigyal!
PADUM 19/08 MORNING BEFORE A GRUELLING 135 KMS DRIVE TO PHOTOKSAR
———————————————————————————-
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I drove the jeep to the right of Karsha and left of Stongdey and reached Zangla. Then came Pidmo and the gorge where I drove first to the right of the Indus River and later crossing a bridge to the right. Next was a left turn climbing shale and broken slabs of granite in the name of road building. This turned into a series of ridges culminating in the Murgum La a km right of the colourful village of Lingshed
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VisibilityPublicPublishOctober 7, 2021 10:37 amPost FormatAsideChatGalleryImageLinkQuoteStandardVideoStick to the top of the blogAuthorBobby ChakrabortyEnable AMPMove to trash24 Revisions
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After that it was the blue waters of Purne and then climbing towards Padum along a thin trail on the side of a cliff in what looked like a sinking zone as I have seen quite a few myself in Sikkim. Will add videos as photos don’t show the travails. So 18th of August having been stymied for an hour down a cliffside by an overloaded tractor that refused to move an inch. My friend tried winching the bloke but in the end I told him exactly what he was to do which was move back to a culvert so we could leave. Reached Padum in ink black darkness with no moonlight and our mates who came in earlier booked us all in hotel Rigyal!
PADUM 19/08 MORNING BEFORE A GRUELLING 135 KMS DRIVE TO PHOTOKSAR
———————————————————————————-
I drove the jeep to the right of Karsha and left of Stongdey and reached Zangla. Then came Pidmo and the gorge where I drove first to the right of the Indus River and later crossing a bridge to the right. Next was a left turn climbing shale and broken slabs of granite in the name of road building. This turned into a series of ridges culminating in the Murgum La a km right of the colourful village of Lingshed
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